Your Hair and Nails: Tips For Both

1) A daily workout with a natural bristle brush will keep your hair in the best of health.
Brushing hair before shampoo removes dead hair and helps regulate the natural growth and
replacement process. Brushing between shampoos helps keep hair clean and polishes the cuticle for
extra luster. Brushing before you sleep makes it look better in the morning. Brush it forward and
back and all around hair line. Forget the 100 strokes, all it takes is 10 seconds before shampooing
to assure healthy hair growth.

2) To deep cleanse hair and scalp, before wetting hair apply shampoo to hair when its dry
and the wet to active deep cleansing action.

3) Begin by applying shampoo to the back of head first where hair is thickest and
under the hair if its shoulder length or longer. Concentrate messaging action around temples to
loosen scalp, encourage circulation, relax tense scalp muscles and remove make-up.

4) The rule of thumb, If shampoo does not suds up a lot with the first application , use a
second shampooing. Rinsing thoroughly removes excess suds and assures extra shine. And the
hair will stay cleaner between shampoo's. To speed drying, wrap hair in bath towel, turban style
after shampooing and before styling.

5) Turn water temperature down slowly and rinse with cool or cold water to close scalp
pore opening , control oily scalp conditions, firm hair fiber, return elasticity, smooth and
polish hair surface for a high gloss finish. Hair will dry faster with extra body for styling.

6) Using moist steam heat, is the quickest way to make conditioners work better. It also
works as a classifier to lift excess styling aids from hair. Wet a towel, wring it out, fold and place in
micro-wave to quickly heat up towel.

Use the steam towel wrapped around a conditioner while taking a bath. Steam makes conditioners
more effective because the active ingredients (protein) sorb into damage areas quickly. Steam heat
also helps open plugged follicle pores to draw out impurities. Steam also helps remove loosens
dandruff, draws excess oil to control oily scalp problems or draw out oil to relieve a dry scalp or
hair condition.

When used in combination with creme conditioner it instantly softens dry coarse hair. Try my new
Hairobics "steam conditioning foam bonnet" instead of a hot towel. Slip foam bonnet on head over
conditioner and run hot shower water over it for a quick steam creme conditioning treatment.

Here are some tips to keep your hair in shape:

Use conditioners. They won't necessarily give your hair a radiant glow, but
they can coat the hair with a lubricant or synthetic that replaces the stripped
out sebum. Some conditioners bond to the hair, helping to smooth the cuticle
and restore sheen to the hair. Others cut down the static charges of flyaway
hair. And still other conditioners, which are acidic, help balance the pH of
shampoos, which are usually alkaline.
Go easy on coloring, hot rollers and dryers--especially if you spend a lot of
time outdoors.
Wear a hat in the sun.
Wear a bathing cap in pools or in salt water. Comb conditioner in your hair
before you put the cap on and then wash your hair afterward.
Dry your hair gently, by blotting and squeezing, not rubbing. Never brush wet
hair. Instead, use a wide-tooth comb.

Dandruff

Dandruff isn't a medical problem as much as a cosmetic one. Your body sheds
layers of dead skin everyday. But when the scalp sheds skin, flakes get trapped in
the hair and collect along with dirt and oil. While there's no way to prevent dandruff,
shampooing will often keep it under control. An ordinary shampoo may work if you
use it enough--usually every two to four days. But dandruff shampoos may control
dandruff a few days longer by helping to decrease the number of scales.

If you want to invest in a dandruff shampoo, check for antidandruff ingredients such
as zinc pyrithione, sulfusalicylic compounds and selenium sulfide or coal tar. Be
careful with shampoos containing any of these ingredients because they can hurt your eyes. And since most shampoos leave a build up or residue, you may want to
alternate between a regular shampoo and a dandruff shampoo.

Hair Dyes

Whether your color is orange, blond or red, you should know what you're getting
into when you use hair dyes. The jury is still out on whether hair dyes cause
long-term health problems, but it still pays to be cautious by following these tips:

Avoid permanent hair dyes if you're pregnant or plan to become pregnant
soon. The dye could harm the fetus. Doctors routinely tell women to stop
dying their hair when they become pregnant.
Try to postpone the decision to dye your hair permanently for as long as
possible. Learn to make the most of your natural color--if you can.
Dye your hair as little as possible, not just because you're sick of the last
color. The more you use permanent dyes or go from one wild extreme to the
next, the more likely you are to damage your hair.
Read hair dye instructions carefully. Leave the product on only as long as the
instructions indicate and use it only in the amounts indicated.
Try frosting or streaking instead of coloring your entire head.
Talk with a cosmetologist who specializes in hair coloring. He or she may be
able to give you some tips related to problem products.
Consider going to a professional beautician if you must dye your hair. Beauty
schools often offer steep discounts.

Nails

Fingernails are just another type of skin, and not all nails are created equal. Fair
skinned people have pinkish nails, while other people have brown or black ones. But
one thing is sure: Nails often tell a story. Healthy nails are often a sign of good health,
while bad nails are often a tip off to more serious problems. The following are some
common nail problems:

Dry nails

Dry skin gets worse in winter or in colder-weather months and so does the condition
of some nails. Some get brittle, which is why you have to be careful about soaking
them in water with chlorine, soap or detergents. Rubber gloves and warm gloves
worn outside in cold weather can help. White spots. Don't believe what you hear.
You probably don't have a mineral or calcium deficiency. White spots usually
develop because you've hit your nails against something.

Ridges

Some people develop straight up and down or longitudinal ridges while others
develop horizontal ridges called Bean's lines. Some of these ridges are
genetic--they're inherited-- and get worse as you age. Others are the result of over
manicuring your nails, biting your fingers, having a disease such as measles, or a
serious infection.

Discoloration.

Cigarettes, hair dyes and even tints sometimes discolor the nails.
Separations from the nail bed

Sometimes your nail looks like it's going to literally lift off from the nail bed. It's scary
and could be a sign of psoriasis, a skin disorder. Or it might be because your hands
are spending too much time in water, detergents or soaps or overuse of nail
hardeners.

Here are some tips to keep your nails healthy:

Use nail polish remover with caution. It can dry the nails and your cuticles. Try
not to repair nail enamel every day.
Watch out for signs of nail infection, including redness, pain or pus. The nail
plates are porous and dry quickly. Nail polishes waterproof the nails and
cause the skin under them to stay wet longer. This makes them more open to
infection.
Be careful of some nail products. Some can cause rashes on the fingers or
around the eyes since buffing or filing can cause small particles to enter the air.
Some of the more damaging products are in nail hardeners.
Be careful with artificial nails. Some older artificial nails contained dangerous
products such as methyl methacrylate. Wearing stick-on nails for long periods
of time can sometimes damage the real nails.

The right way to condition - After rinsing shampoo, apply some conditioner
in one hand and rub palms together to evenly distribute. Apply conditioner from
the middle of the hair shaft down to ends; do not massage conditioner onto
scalp unless scalp is dry. Comb through hair to distribute product evenly.
Leave conditioner on hair long to help smooth the cuticle—it only takes a few
seconds. Rinse thoroughly - It’s important to rinse shampoo and conditioner
from your scalp. Stand under the shower and gently lift hair to permit the water
to reach the scalp. Hair will be thoroughly rinsed when it feels consistently
clean as you run your fingers from scalp to ends. Some people believe a cold
water rinse is best.

To wash or not to wash? - Shampooing frequency for normal hair depends
on whether hair is curly or straight. Shampoo and condition straight hair every
day for a sleek, radiant look. Curly hair, however, becomes too fluffy if it’s
washed too often, so it’s okay to shampoo and condition every other day.

Should you occasionally switch shampoos? - Most Salon Brands do not
build-up on hair; they continue to work effectively as long as you use them, so
there’s no need to switch products (another myth debunked). However,
shampooing occasionally without using any conditioner or styling products to
give hair a rest. Choosing the right products for your hair - Fine or thin hair can
sometimes be more delicate and could benefit from a protein enriched
shampoo and conditioner formula with a light level of conditioner. Curly hair
may look dry, and therefore can benefit from a regimen which includes
moisturizing ingredients.

Conditioning
What is a "Conditioner"?
The term "conditioner" is vague. Conditioners fall into different groups
according to what you want to accomplish with your hair. People with thin hair
need a specific kind of "conditioner", people with thick, dry hair need another...

Conditioners fall into six major catagories:

Moisturizers
Reconstructors
Acidifiers
Detanglers
Thermal Protectors Glossers
Oils (E.F.A.'s- essential fatty acids)

Moisturizers: Are concentrated with humectants. Humectants are compounds
that attract and hold moisture into the hair. They may not necessarily contain
botanicals or protein (they often do).

Reconstructors: Normally contain protein. Hydrolized human hair keratin
protein is the best source, because it contains all 19 amino acids found in the
hair. Human hair keratin protein has a low molecular weight. This enables the
it to penetrate the hairshaft (the cortex). The main purpose of a reconstructor
is to strenghten the hair.

Acidifiers: The key word here is "acid". Yes, is is good to put acid on your
hair. When a product carries a pH of 2.5 to 3.5 it is normlly termed an acidifier.
This pH will close (compact) the cuticle layer of the hair. The result is shiney,
bouncey hair. This pH range will adjust the beta bonds to alpha bonds
(hydrogen bonds). Acidifiers do not weigh the hair. They do create shine, and
add elasticity.

Detanglers: Most detanglers are acidifiers (see above). Most have low pH's
2.5 to 3.5. They close the cuticle of the hair which cause tangles. Some
"shield" the hairshaft with polymers (polymers are strings of "like" molecules-
a chain). Some detanglers are instant, some take 1-5 minutes to work.

Thermal Protectors: Thermal protectors safeguard the hair against heat.
Using thermal protectors are one of the best things you can do to your hair if
you blow dry, use curling irons, or hot rollers. They normally use heat
absorbing polymers that distribute the heat, so your hair does not get heat
damage (a major cause of hair damage).

Glossers: For the most part glossers are cosmetic. Most Glossers contain
dimethicone or cyclomethicone ( very light oils derved from silicone). Used in
small amounts they reflect light. Also, they are one of the bestproducts to
control the "frizzies."

Oils (E.F.A.'s): If you have dry hair (esp. if you have chemicals on your
hair{color-perm-relaxer}you need to add oil to your hair. The scalp produces a
natural oil called sebum. EFA's are the closest thing to natural sebum (sebum
contain EFA'S). EFA's can take very dry and porus hair and transform it into
soft pliable hair.

Styling Gel

1. Look for water-based gels. Avoid alcohol in gel products - alcohol makes
the product dry quickly, but is really hard on your hair (it dries it out). You
should be able to tell whether a product is alcohol or water based by reading
the label.

2. Holding power - buy gel according to your styling needs.

3. Rinsability - you should be able to completely rinse gel out of your hair. If
there is gel residue your hair will be dull and heavy.

How do you judge the amount of hold you need?
It all depends on the style you want to achieve. The best advice is to
experiment with different gels and different styles, noting the results of each
mini-experiment, to find out what works best for you. Use the least amount of
gel to achieve the desired style. Style dictates what level of hold you need. For
example, heavy-hold gels are for moulded styles and hard-to-hold hair, while
light gels are sufficient for styles requiring light but firm hold.

Trial and error is the best way to learn how much hold you need, but
here are some guidelines:
* light hold is used for soft styles
* medium hold is used for firm control
* strong hold is used for dramatic styles
* maximum hold is used for sculptured looks ie. for spikes

Try different levels of hold.
The best advice is to experiment with different levels of hold to determine what
level you need for a given hair style. You should always use the least amount
of gel to achieve the style you want.

When should I use gel?
Depends on the style. A moulded style like a dramatic wave requires gel
through the entire area you want to mould. Or you can spot mould, using gel
only in the areas you want to mould. In general, you should use gel whenever
you need styling control for your hair. Guys generally use gel to hold hair in
slicked back styles.

Styling tips
* Using gel on clean hair works best.
* Keep gel off hairline and scalp - avoid clogging pores.
* LESS IS MORE - only use the amount of gel you need to achieve the style
you want.
* If you are curling your hair use gel only in the hair which will be curled, i.e. in
the last 1/3 of your hair - or whatever fits into the curling iron or rollers.
* If your goal is to achieve lift then use more gel closer to the roots.
* Using gel as a setting agent - apply gel to towel dry hair, style hair as
desired, then blow dry.

Guidelines for using gel on different types of hair:
* On straight & heavy hair, use strong hold formulas.
*On curly & dry hair, gel is best used to hold a patch of hair in position - use
any gel sparingly.
* On longer hair (past the shoulder), spray gels are ideal.

General tips in summary
* Keep gels off the scalp.
* Less is more.
* If your goal is to achieve a slight curve, apply gel to the ends of the hair.
* If your goal is to achieve lift without curve, apply gel near roots.
* If you are looking for more control or definition of curls, apply gel all over your
hair.

GLOSSES & SHINERS

Great for adding a super shine, high gloss look to dull, straight hair. Apply on
dry hair to smooth flyaway or curly hair. Glosses and shiners contain silicone,
a transparent water soluble solution that will temporally mend split ends.
Silicone works by adhering to each hair cuticle without weighing hair down.
These products wash out easily and are best applied by rubbing a small
amount between hands and onto entire head.

MOUSSE

Works best to enhance natural curl, thickness and body for all hair types.
Mousse is full of humectants which lock in moisture and bring out your hairs
natural body. The resin ingredients will hold your style in place. Use a dollop of
mousse on wet hair and blow dry. A diffuser can be used for the curly look. If
allowed to air dry, hair will feel stiff to the touch. These results would be similar
to using gel or hair spray on wet hair.

POMADE & WAX

Coat the hair to give a sleek look to straight hair, a piecey look to layers, or
the "grunge look." Application amount will determine your outcome. These
products contain petroleum that adds weight to hair and may cause buildup
when used repeatedly. Recommended for controlling medium to thick hair.
Spot finish using a patting motion on hair. Remember less is more with these
products, use sparingly.

STRAIGHTENING BALMS

Your best bet for achieving today's hottest "straight" styles. A temporary
technique to relax the curl and body in hair. Start by dividing clean, damp hair
into sections. Apply generously and comb through from roots to ends. Style
with a blow dryer using heat.

ROOT LIFTERS

A lifesaver for fine, limp, or medium hair. Gives the appearance of volume by
adding fullness to the crown of the head. Root lifters work with a combination
of resins and algae's. The resins add the lift and the algae's give a soft hold.
Apply at the roots of wet hair prior to styling.

TEXTURIZERS

Offer soft control, shine, and movement without stiffness. Make hair
manageable and easy to style. Terrific as a styling aid for medium, thick and
course hair. For wet hair, distribute evenly, shape, style, then blow dry. On dry
hair, apply with fingertips to lift, define, and texturize.

VOLUMIZERS

Gives the appearance of thicker, fuller hair. Contains liquid resins that work to
double the width of the hair shaft. Works well for adding volume and bounce on
fine to medium heads. Smooth on wet hair and blow style.